Welcome to Toronto!

Toronto's a fun city. I've written this guide to help friends plan their visit and enjoy their stay.

I lived in London (UK) before I moved to Toronto, and most of my friends are from there. This guide generally presumes a UK-centric cultural background as a result.

Toronto is a young city in a young country. As such, it doesn't have the same depth of history or culture as London. If you talk to Canadians, they might say things like "Toronto's really busy/expensive/intense." If you're used to London, you'll find it surprisingly affordable/less crowded/quite chill. There's great food, coffee, and weather. It's very safe, and an easy destination for a native English speaker. You're not visiting for history, culture, or beautiful architecture: you're visiting to soak up the vibe, see some amazing nature, and enjoy city life.

The weather is more extreme than the UK - colder winters, hotter summers - so the seasons are more distinct. Torontonians lean into this seasonality, and you should too: make the most of the sunshine in late spring and summer, embrace sweaters and pumpkins in the autumn, layer up and try ice skating in winter.

London has lots of marquee attractions: for instance, a day at the V&A is a fulfilling day in itself. Toronto's attractions are smaller, so string a few together. A day trip to the AGO alone might be underwhelming; but combine it with a look around Chinatown and a coffee in Kensington Market, and you've got a great day. High Park alone might not feel worth the trip; a walk in High Park, lunch and a browse up Roncesvalles, then a film at the Revue will be.

Don't be fooled by a map of Ontario: it's bigger than you think. You will not be doing day trips to Ottawa, Algonquin, or Montreal. Prince Edward County is about the limit; it looks close, but it's a good 2-3 hours of driving.

Basic orientation and survival

Arrival

You'll probably arrive at Toronto Pearson airport, a little way out of the city. The best way to get downtown is via the UP train; they run 24 hours a day once every 15 minutes. If you're staying with us, get off at Bloor station.

If you're arriving from a short-haul flight, you might arrive at Billy Bishop airport. It's downtown, so the transport connections are better. There's a free shuttle bus to Union station, and TTC stops right outside.

Getting around

Toronto's public transport is "the TTC". You'll need a contactless debit/credit or Presto card to use it. Most trips will be a combination of streetcar, bus, and/or subway lines. A journey costs $3.30, and you get unlimited transfers for 2 hours. Tap your card on the reader when you board (or to open the gates on the subway). You don't need to tap out.

Transport generally runs frequently enough you don't need to worry about timetables. Apple Maps, Google Maps, and Citymapper can give you directions.

Downtown

Toronto streets follow a grid system. Yonge Street runs north-to-south, and is the official dividing line between east and west Toronto. Nathan Phillips Square is the heart of the city, and often hosts events.

The environment

Toronto's weather is more extreme than the UK: warmer summers and colder winters. You can generally count on pleasant weather from the end of May to mid September. You'll need a jacket in April and October; plan to bring a good coat in the winter months. There might be some snow in December; you can generally count on it in January-March.

Apart from a warm coat and hat, layers are your best bet for handling the cold. You can always add one more: two pairs of socks, longjohns under trousers, an undershirt/T shirt/jumper and coat, 2 pairs of gloves. A hot drink in an insulated flask also makes a huge difference.

Toronto is on the same latitude as Spain, so don't mess around with the sun. Wear sunscreen, even if it's cold outside. You might like to wear a sunhat, and you should definitely carry a water bottle.

Insects in Ontario are relentless outside of winter. This won't bother you downtown, but if you're planning to visit a provincial park or similar woodland walk: wear DEET-containing insect repellent. You'll get bitten anyway; a hot spoon will treat your bites.

Etiquette

Tipping is pervasive but not as bad as the US. A good starting point is 15% in restaurants (pre-tax) and $1/drink in bars. Just leave a loonie on the counter.

Cannabis

Pot's legal in Canada; there are dispensaries on every block. When it was legalised in 2018 I was expecting a shitshow: pot smoke everywhere, stoners stumbling around downtown, a critical shortage of snack foods. None of that came to pass: there are a lot of dispensaries but you don't see people getting high in public that much.

Unlike Amsterdam, there aren't coffee shops for consumption. (Kensington Market's Hotbox closed in 2022.) You'll need to buy from a dispensary and then consume it off-site. You can buy pre-rolled joints and edibles from dispensaries as well as "dried flower". A joint is meant to be shared: don't smoke it solo in one go. Edibles have a reputation of being mild, but it's still an edible: give it a couple of hours before deciding it's not working for you, lest you end up needing backup.

Getting around

On foot

I find that roads are slightly longer than you think if you look at a map. Trust the time estimates on your phone; if it says it's a 15 minute walk, and you think "I'll do it in 10", the phone is correct.

The countdowns at street crossings are how much time you have left to cross. It's technically illegal to start crossing when the countdown starts, but everybody ignores this. It's legal to cross mid-block but it's often safer to use a crossing.

Pedestrians have priority at stop signs and uncontrolled intersections. In other words: if there's no traffic lights, you can keep walking. Drivers will 100% expect you to use this; you will confuse people if you try to give way or wave cars through.

Be aware that traffic generally moves even when you have a "walk" signal; cars must give way to anyone crossing, but they can legally turn through it. So make sure they've seen you.

Public transport

The downtown TTC map. More maps (and this one as PDF) on the TTC website.

Public transport in Toronto is the TTC, and is a combination of streetcars (trams), subways, and buses. They generally run often enough that you don't need to check a timetable. Google Maps, Apple Maps, Citymapper, or the TTC itself will help you plan a journey.

A trip costs $3.30, which gets you a 2-hour window of travel. There's no restrictions - you can change transport modes, double back, etc.

Most people use a Presto card to pay their fare. It costs $4 from vending machines in subway stations or at Shopper's Drug Mart. You can top it up at machines as needed. They've just enabled payment via debit/credit card on the TTC, so if you have an international card this is the easiest option.

Tap your card whenever you get on a vehicle.

By bike

Cycling in Toronto is a bit hairier than the UK, but it's improving. There's a reasonable network of separated cycle lanes and quieter street routes.

There are bike share stations all over the city. They charge $1 to unlock a bike, then 12¢ a minute to ride ($7.20/hour). Ebikes cost a little more.

You can also get a day pass for $15, as long as you keep your rides less than 90 minutes.

There's a lot of on-street parking next to cycle lanes in Toronto, so watch out for door prizes. Pedestrians are also oblivious, especially along the waterfront and Bloor Street.

You can legally turn right at a red light if there's no pedestrians crossing. When streetcar doors are open, you should stop behind the street car. (They have flashing lights to warn you.)

By car

You must give way to pedestrians at all turns. Pedestrians will expect this.

If there's no pedestrians or crossing traffic, you can generally turn right at red lights. Watch out for cyclists, and "no right on red" signs.

Don't pass streetcars when they're picking up/dropping off passengers.

There are a lot of stop signs in Ontario. Whoever stops first at an intersection has right of way. If two vehicles stop simultaneously, the driver on the right goes first.

If you see or hear an emergency vehicle with its lights on, you're supposed to pull over and stop. In city traffic this isn't always possible, but try to get out of its way. If possible, leave one lane of space when overtaking a stopped emergency vehicle.

Souvenirs and gifts

Ideas

• Maple syrup is a classic Canadian gift, but it's heavy and glass bottles are risky to carry around. Better to get maple candy, IMHO.
• Coffee Crisp and Oh Henry bars are not vegan, but classic Canadian chocolate bars.
• I like to buy clothes when I travel, so I remember my trip whenever I put them on. I have good luck finding things in Winner's and Marshall's; if you want a Canada-only brand, take a look at Joe Fresh.
• The usual tourist tat: keyrings, mugs, shot glasses, etc. Anything with a maple leaf on it.

Shops

• Dollarama has lots of branches and often has Canada-branded items, especially in the run-up to Canada Day. It's a good place to get keyrings, stickers, pencils, etc.
• No Frills is a supermarket with strong branding in their "No Name" line. It's a popular riff for joke products; they sell a few of their own.
• Chinatown has lots of souvenir outlets at reasonable prices.
• SoMA Chocolatier has a few branches (King & Spadina, the Distillery District, Parkdale). They're a high-quality chocolatier; expensive, but not eye-watering. Good chocolate is a nice gift already, but some bars have Canadian ingredients like ice wine sloes and Newfoundland salt. They used to sell a bar with a map of Toronto on it too.
• Spacing has a store at Richmond & Spadina. They sell a lot of Toronto-branded goods; expect streetcars, TTC logos, neighbourhood badges, raccoons, etc.
• Second Cup is a popular Canadian coffee chain; they often have nice mugs.
• Balzac's is an indie coffee chain. They sell mugs and posters as well as coffee.
• Blue Banana in Kensington Market has a wide range of unusual items.
• Toronto Public Library sells reasonably-priced tote bags.
• Hudson's Bay is an iconic Canadian department store, especially known for its stripes. There's a shop immediately south of the Eaton Centre.
• Pretty much all the provincial parks have a park store that sells merchandise; a T shirt or hoodie is a good gift. They'll give you a nice reusable bag if you spend about $25.

Useful websites

• Wikivoyage has its own travel guide to the city with lots of detail.
• BlogTO is a hive of vapid clickbait and advertorial chum, but is your best bet for finding out what's happening in the city. Be especially cautious about any headlines like "This Ontario park..." - these could be 12 hours or more outside the city.
• Toronto.ca is the official city website. It's a bit hard to navigate, but it's got details for all the municipal facilities (parks/skating rinks/pools/etc) and events.
• Songkick has gig listings.
• The /r/torontoevents subreddit mostly lists comedy shows, but is worth a glance.

Tourist highlights

The tourist guides will point you to these. They're not all bad, but you could skip them all and not miss out.

The CN Tower

The CN Tower is the tallest element of the Toronto skyline, and probably Toronto's most recognisable building. It's got a good view, but I don't think it's worth the $50 price of admission. You also have to pay extra to go to the very top.

The edgewalk is a really good view, especially at sunset, but it's eye-wateringly expensive ($200+). Your ticket will get you access to the rest of the tower, though.

The Aquarium

As a vegan I have mixed feelings about aquariums, but Toronto's aquarium is pretty good. I've not heard any egregious animal welfare stories about it. The star attraction is a long underwater tunnel.

The aquarium opens late, and has a regular jazz night that costs the same as a regular visit.

St Lawrence Market

It's a nice enough food market in the east of the city, and it has a large farmer's market at weekends. But the prices aren't great, there's not many vegan options, and it largely focuses on ingredients rather than takeaway food a la Borough Market.

Art Gallery of Ontario

It's a good art gallery with a varied collection, but pales in comparison to any London gallery. If you like art and don't mind paying $20 for entry, it's worth a visit. They do free entry some evenings.

There's a nice park round the back, if you'd like a sunny sit down or a place to eat your lunch.

Royal Ontario Museum

Again: it's a good museum, but it's not a patch on the Natural History Museum. The after dark events are fun. $26, or free on the 3rd Tuesday night of each month.

The Eaton Centre

It's a mall. Good if you want to do some shopping, and it does have some brands you won't find in the UK, but it's not a must-see.

If you are nearby, the south end has a flock of geese sculpture that's worth seeing.

Yonge-Dundas Square

This square is on the north east corner of the Eaton Centre. It's garish, busy, scuzzy, and small. Fine if you need to pass through it, or if there's an event happening, but I wouldn't take a guest here even if we were already in the Eaton Centre.

Nathan Phillips Square

Nathan Phillips Square, on the other hand, is worth a peek. It has city hall (as seen in Resident Evil: Apocalypse), a giant Toronto sign, and also often hosts events. Old city hall is next door.

The Distillery District

The Distillery District is what you get when a group of property developers transform some disused Victorian factories into shops and events venues, rather than it happening organically over time. It's a nice enough area, but there's a whiff of the inauthentic about it. If there's an event there you'd like to see it's well worth a visit, and nosing around some of the galleries and shops is very pleasant. But I wouldn't recommend it as a destination in itself.

In December it hosts a Christmas market (extremely busy; be prepared to queue outside in the cold for over an hour); the new year also often sees a light festival (outdoors, but not nearly as busy). The galleries often host exhibitions for the Contact Photography Festival and Nuit Blanche.

Casa Loma

110 years ago some rich guy decided to build a mansion and called it a castle. North America doesn't have castles, so everyone presumed he knew what he was talking about it and went along with it. I've actually never visited, so maybe it's lovely and my scepticism is unwarranted. But I don't think it's old enough or prestigious enough to be interesting.

I have done an escape room at Casa Loma, which was pricey but worth it. The puzzles were fun; it had multiple locations; there were in-character performers. If you like escape rooms and don't mind working with strangers it's worth considering, though your escape room ticket won't give you access to the castle.

Fort York

Fort York was built in 1793 just outside a fledgling Toronto. Today it's a national historic site: you can wander the buildings and grounds, and see some exhibits about the history of the city and military life. Admission is free. It's worth stopping by if you're in the area and are interested in history. The Bentway, just to the south, often has free outdoor art exhibitions.

Things to do

Kensington Market

Kensington Market's a vibrant shopping area, a bit like Camden without the grime and the goths. The hippie district, if you will. Pretty much all the businesses are independent; it's a good place to get some food, drink, or souvenirs. Pedestrian Sundays are held the last Sunday of the month, though it's never car-heavy. The garden car is a classic Toronto Instagram post.

• Blue Banana has good gifts, and an eclectic range of products.
• All my sunglasses since moving to Toronto were about $7 from Kensington Market.
• Moon Bean Cafe and I Deal Coffee are good.
• Essence of Life is a classic health food shop, and bigger than you think.
• There's a lot of vintage clothing stores.

Toronto islands

Toronto was originally a natural harbour, and Toronto Islands were a peninsula. A big storm transformed them into islands in the 1850s. These days they're car-free, and basically a big park. If you get away from the crowds they're delightfully peaceful. There's not many shops on the island, so bring your snacks and drinks with you.

Three ferries run to the island, all from Jack Layton ferry terminal. The main route is to Centre Island; if you have your own bike, taking the ferry to Hanlan's Point is a quieter bet. The ferry takes about 10 minutes to cross, and you get a great view of the city skyline. There's a foot tunnel to Billy Bishop airport, but you can't access the island that way.

Centre Island has an underwhelming fairground and a small urban farm. Bikes (including tandems and pedal-carts) can be hired from the stands east of Manitou Beach. That beach is the busiest; it's worth walking to Gibraltar Point beach for a quieter sunbathe.

A little further round is Hanlan's Point beach, Toronto's clothing optional beach. It's fine. Piping plovers have nested in the north stretch of this beach in recent years; you might see some if you're lucky.

High Park zoo

High Park has a lot of different attractions: Grenadier Pond for water birds & turtles, cherry trees in spring, some wooded ravines, a historic monument and lodge, a sculpture garden, and an outdoor theatre. But the best of all is the zoo: a small collection of animals that's free to visit. Capybaras, bison, emu, wallabies, pigs, peacocks, reindeer, and more.

Open-air swimming

Toronto has many outdoor pools that open from late June to the start of September. They're free, and often open late when there's a heat warning. If you're close to the lakeshore, it can be really nice to cycle along to Gus Ryder pool in the dark, swim until midnight, and then ride home.

If you're looking for a pool on the website, make sure you filter out splash pads; they're children's play areas, and not what you're looking for.

Ice skating

Outdoor ice skating is generally an option from December through to early March. Some places have skate rinks, but there are also some skate trails too. Skate rental is normally about $10, and there's normally no other charges. If you have your own skates, you skate free.

Nathan Phillips Square and the Harbourfront normally have good rinks. The Bentway has a short skate trail that's extremely popular at weekends (you might need to queue to get in). A little way outside of the city is the Colonel Samuel Smith Skate Trail which is lovely, but they don't offer skate rentals. There are many others.

See some nature

Canada has some amazing nature, and you don't have to travel far out of Toronto to see it. I've written a whole section about your options.

Arcade bars

Toronto has a few arcade bars, where you pay a small cover charge and then the (normally retro) games are free-to-play. Tilt is now in Parkdale after its previous venue burned down; its sister venue ZED*80 is a little further out. I've never visited Freeplay but that's another option.

Downtown also has The Rec Room, which is a different beast entirely. It's cavernous and the games charge, but you can win tickets and trade them for prizes. It's overwhelming and not my thing, but if you're at the CN Tower then there's no harm in having a look.

Board game cafes

Toronto has a number of board game cafes. Snakes and Lattes is the big daddy - the chain company with big spaces. There's a $10 cover and you can play as many games as you like. There are others: A-Game Cafe is fairly central and has a $7 cover.

Toronto reference library

The reference library is the flagship library branch. It's got striking interior architecture, a small gallery, and an Arthur Conan Doyle collection. It also hosts special events, most notably The Toronto Comic Arts Festival (TCAF). There's also a Balzac's Cafe downstairs, and a used bookstore.

See a sports game

Toronto has three premier sports teams: the Maple Leafs (ice hockey), the Raptors (basketball), and the Blue Jays (baseball). They also have an MLS team (Toronto FC), but America sees football as a second-tier sport. There's also the Argonauts, who play Canadian Football.

If you're not really a sports fan, but wouldn't mind seeing a game while you're here, then you should look at the minor leagues. The Marlies play in the American Hockey League, so tickets are more affordable. There is a semi-pro baseball team also called the Maple Leafs; their games are free to attend. The Raptors 905 play just outside of Toronto.

Graffiti alley

Toronto has many alleys. Thus, Toronto has a great street art scene. As well as murals in alleys, you'll see lots of bigger works on the side of buildings throughout the city.

Graffiti alley runs from Spadina Avenue to Portland Street, parallel with Queen Street. It's a fairly dingy alley with a lot of murals. You'll probably find yourself nearby at some point, so it's an easy place to visit.

Allan Gardens conservatory

This particular pocket of the city has a somewhat scuzzy reputation, but Allan Gardens holds a small, free botanical garden. It's a nice way to spend 20 minutes, and is close to The Image Centre.

The Image Centre

Toronto doesn't have many free museums, but The Image Centre is one of them. It's a photography-themed gallery attached to Toronto Metropolitan University, close to the Eaton Centre. They generally have three galleries: a large contemporary exhibition, and a couple of smaller exhibitions often drawn from the archives. It's currently open from Wednesday to Saturday.

I also enjoy visiting the university and imagining what it would be like to be a student here. Gould Street often hosts events; the grounds of Kerr Hall are nice to sit in.

401 Richmond

401 Richmond is an arts hub with a collection of galleries, cafes, and shops. It's free to visit, and it's a nice building to wander around. There's a peaceful inner courtyard, and apparently they have a roof garden too.

The Harbourfront Centre

All of Toronto's waterfront is nice to visit. If you're there, stop by the Harbourfront Centre. It's another multi-use arts centre, a bit glossier than 401 Richmond. They host plays and concerts, but also have free galleries and a working craft studio. The square outside often hosts events, like the veg food fest, though it sounds like that won't be returning.

Watch the sunset from Riverdale Park East

If you'd like to see the sun set over the city skyline, Riverdale Park East is probably your best option. It's not a peaceful park - the DVP in front of you, Broadview Avenue behind - but it's got an elevated view that faces west.

Riverdale Park East isn't worth a trip on its own, but you can make it part of a bigger outing. Just south of it is east Chinatown. Rooster coffee house is just over the road. And The Danforth is to the north; it's a busy street of bars, restaurants, and shops.

Another popular spot for sunset-watching is Chester Hill lookout, a little further north. I've heard it can get a little dodgy after dark, though I've never visited myself.

Things to keep an eye out for

Toronto has plenty of fun novelties and local colour. None of these are worth an individual trip, but if you're in the neighbourhood you should check them out.

The dog fountain

Berczy Park has a fountain covered in dogs, and the occasional cat. It will also put you next to the flatiron building.

The flatiron building

Like New York's, but smaller. You can see this and the dog fountain if you're near St Lawrence Market.

The poop cafe

It's exactly what it sounds like: a poo-themed dessert bar. The food is surprisingly well-presented given the theme. There's a concrete poop outside for your selfies, and a bigger one indoors. They know what they're doing; they will be more than happy for you to come in & take a photo, even if you don't buy anything.

The recursive history plaque

Before you can understand the Toronto recursive history project, you must first understand the Toronto recursive history project.

The CP24 car

The CP24 studios have a breaking news car just to the east of John Street.

Big signs

City Hall and the Toronto sign.	At the base of the CN Tower.

Nathan Phillips Square put up a temporary Toronto sign years ago, and the city liked it so much it stayed. There's a Canada sign by the CN Tower too.

Street art

Toronto has a lot of great murals. You'll spot some as you walk around, but it's worth detouring down any safe-feeling back alleys to see what you stumble across, especially around the West End.

Canada's walk of fame

There's a running gag that Canadians will always tell you when a celebrity is Canadian. Did you know that Jim Carrey, Joni Mitchell, James Cameron, and Leslie Nielsen are Canadian? Just doing my part.

Discover a whole lot more via the walk of fame stars around Roy Thompson Hall in the Entertainment District; pavement plaques with celebrity names.

The Greek house

Everyone loves it when someone goes hog wild with their home, right? A quiet residential street near Ossington and Dupont has the Greek house. Probably worth a peek if you're at the top corner of Christie Pits Park.

Rabbit sculptures

Big rabbits by the Canadian Broadcasting Centre - an artwork by Cynthia Short.

Lower Don sculptures

Toronto has a very North American habit of putting nature trails next to roads. The Don Valley trail is a great example of this. Yes, you will get trees and grass and birds. You will also have the ever-present roar of motorway traffic. It's a nice enough cycle, but it's not very peaceful.

Anyway. There are some sculptures which you will find at some point as you proceed along. They're by Duane Linklater and are replicas of gargoyles you can find downtown.

Mounted police

If you see one, ask if they have a trading card. They generally don't, but you might get lucky.

FYI, these are Toronto police on horseback - they're not mounties/RCMP. That's a whole different police force.

Annual events

These events are how I think of Toronto's year, but there's always something happening. The city maintains a more comprehensive calendar of festivals and events.

Winterlicious and Summerlicious

Toronto has two dining festivals a year, Winterlicious and Summerlicious. Participating restaurants offer affordable prix-fixe menus. It's a great way to try some new restaurants.

Contact photography festival (May)

I also always look forward to the Contact Photography Festival each year. Galleries throughout the city mount exhibitions - large and small, commercial and noncommercial. Coffee shops and indie places participate too. Again, it's all free, and they normally publish a wonderful catalogue. As someone into photography, I find it hugely inspiring - seeing such a broad diversity of work, seeing some incredible images, and the exhibitions that I know I would do better.

Your best bet is to pick a section of the city, and do a gallery crawl from A to B. Our past crawls include:

• The Distillery District to the Metropolitan Image Centre.
• Along Queen West, from Parkdale to Richmond 401.
• Along Dundas.

Doors Open Toronto (Last weekend in May)

Hundreds of notable buildings open their doors for free tours.

Canada Day (July 1st)

Canada's official birthday. It's a public holiday, and there will be fireworks.

The Ex

The Canadian National Exhibition is an annual fair held at the Exhibition parade grounds. It started life as an agricultural show (and still has one), but is now more of a fair. Expect fairground rides and sideshows, stunt food, and events. It's noisy, busy, and expensive, but if you like fairs you'll like The Ex.

It's worth noting that most years see some disturbance; if you get a bad vibe, head in the opposite direction.

The Air Show

Labour Day weekend sees Toronto beset by the air show. Fighter jets are loud, so it is contentious. Nonetheless, a whole bunch of fighter jets, stunt planes, air display teams, helicopters, and other aircraft will be in the sky along the Lakeshore, roughly westward from Ontario Place. You can buy a ticket, but a lot of people fill Ontario Place and the Marilyn Bell Park to watch for free. You can livestream the commentary to your phone.

There's often big gaps between performances (say, 20-30 minutes) and they intersperse the exciting jets with less compelling vehicles. So bring a book or something else to pass the time if you're making a day of it.

Nuit Blanche (September/October)

If you're planning an autumn trip to Toronto, it's absolutely worth aligning your dates with Nuit Blanche. It's an overnight city-wide free arts festival; thousands of people will come out to see exhibitions, performances, and roam the city at night. It's one of my favourite things about living in Toronto, and a highlight of my year. I like being able to walk from my house to Nathan Phillips Square, and see so many different things. Installations, gallery shows, performances, sculptures. Seeing the city thronged with people at 2AM is thrilling.

Night of Dread parade (Halloween)

Canada is more into Halloween than the UK. Lots of houses put out decorations, lots of people get dressed up. There are haunted houses. And there's a parade: again, expect puppets and musicians and fun.

Winter solstice parade (December 21st)

This is one of my favourite events of the year. The parade starts in Kensington Market and makes its way to Alexandra Park, where a giant sculpture is burned. Bring a hot drink for comfort, and let the event awaken your inner Pagan. There will be puppets, a brass band, stilt walkers, and fire spinners.

Nature

One of the best things about living in Canada is the nature. There are landscapes unlike anything I've ever seen in the UK. There's a large variety of bird life, and new mammals as well. If you like the outdoors, even a little bit, you should include some nature in your trip.

Your chances of seeing iconic North American animals

• Raccoons: strong, especially in early summer and autumn. They tend to come out at dusk; if you walk around some residential back alleys just after sunset, you should see some.
• Beavers: unlikely, though you can see beaver evidence easily enough. They're quite shy animals, but you might get lucky if you visit a wetland away from the city. I've seen beaver dams at Tommy Thompson Park, and chewed trees along the lakeshore trail. They're discouraged in the Don Valley.
• Groundhogs: A good chance if you get a little way out of the city. I've seen groundhogs at Humber Bay park; I bet you'd see them in grassy areas on Toronto Island.
• Skunks: OK chances. They live downtown, and aren't particularly shy. (Every other animal, including humans, wants to stay away from them.) They like grasslands more than raccoons do, but generally follow the same tactics: quiet residential alleys around dusk.
• Coyotes: A good chance in the suburbs. There are warning signs about coyotes at most of Toronto's many ravines, and the city reminds people that seeing coyotes is normal basically every year. Visiting a ravine around dusk is your best chance.
• Snakes: OK chances in high summer. Snakes like to bask in warm spots, but they're also shy so you need to find quieter parks. I've seen snakes in Tommy Thompson park, and on many hiking trails. You might get lucky and spot some in woodland too.
• Turtles: Good chances in late spring or summer. They like to bask on sunny logs and rocks. You can see turtles in High Park, and most wetlands you'll visit.
• Bears: Forget it, unless you head to a remote provincial park. Bears occasionally show up in the suburbs, but it makes the news when they do.
• Moose: Forget it, they're much further north.
• Canada Geese: strong at any river or lake. The waterfront will have some. They're not very exciting though; you have these geese back home.
• Loons: I've never seen one in the city. They're more associated with cottage country - up around Kawartha and Muskoka. They're also quite shy birds, so you're more likely to hear one. I've seen them a few times on the water at Orangeville, though.

Places to visit: in the city

Toronto's not a verdant city, but it still has enough green spaces to support a surprising array of downtown wildlife. The city publishes a number of nature booklets that cover what you might see.

None of these sites will blow your mind, but they're lovely places and easily accessible.

High Park

High Park is your best bet in Toronto itself, especially if you only have a casual interest in nature. It's easy to get to, it has a variety of habitats, and there's always the zoo as a fallback. You'll see water birds, blackbirds, and turtles around the water; woodpeckers in the trees; and you'll hear blue jays. At dusk, there are bats.

Colonel Samuel Smith Park

Technically this is outside the city, in Etobicoke, but you can reach it by streetcar so it still counts. It's a well-manicured park rather than a "wilderness space", but you should see some interesting birds. I've seen a number of warblers, a scarlet tanager, and a Cooper's Hawk here. Mergansers nest on platforms in the spring.

Tommy Thompson Park

Also known as the Leslie Street Spit, Tommy Thompson Park is a long straight park that stretches out into the lake. It's best explored by bike as it's a long, monotonous walk. There's a lot of water birds, and you'll get a nice view back on the city. If you take a side trail into the wooded sections you should see plenty of forest birds too. The park has a notable cormorant colony, and apparently has owls in the winter months. I've also seen snakes here.

The park is officially closed during the week. There's no gatehouse so you're unlikely to be stopped, but there might be industrial traffic.

Be prepared for your trip: there's little shade on the main path and water is only available at the entrance. Wear sunscreen.

The Lakefront Trail

The Lakefront trail stretches along most of Lake Ontario. It's best explored by bicycle, as the nature spots are well spread out. It's best if you're looking for "a bike ride where you might see some nature", as you'll never really escape roads and human habitation.

You would probably start by heading south to the waterfront. You then have two options:

1. You can head east, and pick up the trail through the Don valley park. There's meadows and the river, which attracts animals not put off by the motorway running parallel.
2. You can head west, out past Ontario Place and High Park. This is also parallel to a busy road. Eventually this will lead you to Humber Bay Park, which has a butterfly habitat and some nature trails. Parts of it are closed until 2024, however.

Given the closure of Humber Bay Park, east is the better option.

Places to visit: just outside

Orangeville

Orangeville is about an hour's drive north of Toronto. Island Lake Conservation Area, AKA "the Orangeville reservoir", looks disappointing on a map. It's right next to a bunch of big-box stores and a motorway. But I've found it punches above its weight in terms of nature; I've seen loons, kingfishers, turtles, fish, and cedar waxwings here. You can rent a canoe and paddle around the reservoir; it's big enough that you'll feel like you achieved something if you paddle the entire perimeter. I've visited several times and always enjoyed it.

There's also a good hike just north of Orangeville, in Hockley Valley. There's a 14km hike with the option of a shorter 5.5km loop. These are nice hikes, and more challenging than Island Lake as the terrain is hilly.

If you're driving and planning to visit Island Lake, you might want to combine it with a trip to the Cheltenham Badlands. This is a striking bit of geology, but it's small. You can't walk on the shale, just view it from the boardwalk. It's not worth a trip on its own, but admission to the badlands also grants admission to Island Lake.

Rouge National Urban Park

Rouge Park is just outside Toronto. I've only visited in the winter, which is a more desolate time for nature. The park is big, but bracketed by major highways, Toronto Zoo, and shopping centres so you're never going to feel away from civilisation.

Balsam Lake

Balsam Lake Provincial Park is about a 2 hour drive from Toronto. There's some good canoeing here - we paddled over to Grand Island and ate lunch under the watchful eye of wild-grazing cows. The hiking is also good - the trails form a loop, and you can decide whether you want to do the long legs or the short legs.

We had some great nature sightings when we visted: osprey, owls, and a porcupine.

Mountsberg

Mountsberg Conservation Centre is about an hour's drive away. It has a raptor centre, where you can see birds of prey in their enclosures as well as talks and demos. They also offer some private tours. I held a barn owl, and met several other cuties.

After you've seen the birds there a couple of forested hikes, and some easily accessible lookouts over the reservoir.

Hamilton

Awenda

Places to visit: overnight trips

Killarney

Killarney Provincial Park should blow your mind if you're visiting from the UK. You'll need a car and a plan; most people camp, but the park has a few roofed accommodations available and you might find an AirBNB in the town. There are no nearby supermarkets, so bring what you need.

The first mindblowing aspect is the remoteness: it's a solid 5 hour drive from Toronto. The first couple of hours, until you reach Barrie, is typical North America - multilane highways, strip malls, big box stores. But then you hit a more desolate highway; an unlit two-lane road through rocks and trees. You'll spend two hours on this road, passing only a couple of small settlements, before turning off onto an even quieter road. You still have a 45 minute drive to reach the actual park.

The second mindblowing aspect is the park itself. The scenery is beautiful, and unlike that found in the UK. There are several great hikes. The canoeing is great. It's a dark sky preserve, so you'll see the milky way with the naked eye.

Food

Toronto has a good food scene. There's a wide range of world cuisines available, some good fast food options, and Canada is a very vegan-friendly country. Eating will not be a problem.

The main difference from the UK's food culture is the lack of grab-and-go options. In London, you might grab a sandwich from Pret or a couple of pieces of sushi from Wasabi to tide you over until the next meal. This isn't an option in Toronto; the freshly-made prepackaged sandwich is unknown. Service is also slower; if your train leaves in 5 minutes, forget it.

There's also no equivalent of a Tesco Express/Sainsbury's Local. There are independently-run mini marts - your best bet - and larger supermarkets. Shopper's Drug Mart or Rexall fills a similar commercial niche; they sell some fresh produce and food staples, but they're more expensive than a supermarket.

Since Poutini's closed down a few years ago, your best option for a vegan poutine is Hogtown Vegan for a sit-down meal, or Parka for a takeaway.

Supermarkets

Canadians call them "grocery stores". There's no bad options, but there are a range of price points. You can probably find some bargains and some rip-offs in any of these stores, so double-check the price tag on anything.

All Canadian grocery stores will have great vegan options. The food labelling in Canada is worse than Europe - they don't label things as "suitable for vegetarians" as a matter of course, so expect to read more labels than you're used to. Vegan-specific products are starting to be labelled more, though.

Ontario has restrictive licensing laws, which means most supermarkets don't stock alcohol. The few that do must sell Canadian products - so you'll find lots of good beers, but less inspiring wines. There's no spirits available. For alcohol you should head to the LCBO or Beer Store, both of which are official government outlets and sell all the usual brands.

• Your cheapest options will probably be No Frills and FreshCo. I like FreshCo more, but often shop at No Frills too. I've never seen one which stocks alcohol.
• Metro is a mid-market option. It's a bit glossier than No Frills and FreshCo, and often sells some alcohol.
• Loblaws, Sobeys, and Farm Boy are just a smidge fancier than Metro, roughly equivalent to a Waitrose. You'll find the occasional bargain but you could get a cheaper shop elsewhere.

Some less common options include:

• T&T Supermarket tends to be outside of Toronto, but there's a downtown location on College Street. This is more of an Asian grocer (though owned by Loblaws). You'll often find cheap produce here, as well as a wide range of Asian snacks and staples.
• There are a few Independent CityMarket places downtown, which is - weirdly - a Loblaw's franchise. These tend to be pricey, but if you just need a snack or one or two ingredients it's not too bad.
• Longo's is also on the pricier end of the market.

In a pinch, most Rexalls and Shopper's Drug Marts sell some food and fresh items. I would never do my main grocery shop here - it's expensive and doesn't have a wide selection - but if you just need a couple of items it's fine.

Chains and quick bites

If you're not in the mood for a sit-down meal, here are some good options.

• I think of these three places as quite different, but they can all be described as "vegetable-forward bowls and wraps, with clearly-marked vegan options":
  • Freshii is a Canada-wide chain.
  • Imperfect Fresh Eats is mostly about the bowls, and is a newer upstart. They're a little pricier than Freshii, but the portions are bigger.
  • Basil Box feels a bit more Thai. They're generally a build-your-own-bowl place.
• Kupfert and Kim is more health-focused. I've never felt stuffed after eating there, so they're a good light bite option.
• Pizzaiolo offers a couple of vegan pizzas, including a "by the slice" option. They don't always have a vegan slice available, but it's a good snack to tide you over to a proper meal.
• Copper Branch is an Ontario-wide chain which does good vegan sandwiches, burgers, and fast food that doesn't feel decadent.
• There are a lot of good burrito places. Most of them have vegan-friendly options but won't mark it on the menu. I like all of these.
  • Fat Bastard Burrito doesn't list their vegan-friendly components on their in-store menu, but they've got a clear chart on their website.
  • Big Fat Burrito in Kensington Market has an explicitly vegan burrito on their menu, and they do cocktails.
  • Burrito Boyz has some vegan sauces and cheese on their menu, and generally won't charge for guacamole if you skip the cheese.
  • Quesada marks their vegan options, but they're mostly outside the city.
  • Mucho Burrito Went a bit weird a few years ago; you now get n toppings with your burrito, and they charge something like 20¢ for extras. But they have some vegan-friendly options.
• The Burger's Priest has a vegan burger on the menu.
• Tim Hortons really is the last refuge of the desperate, but a toasted bagel is occasionally what you want. Ask for it "dry" or they'll put butter on it by default.

Restaurants

Toronto is a city of immigrants, so there's a broad variety of world cuisines available here. You will have no trouble finding good meals. Michelin recently discovered Canada, so now we even have some stars and notable mentions.

There are two annual restaurant food festivals - Summerlicious and Winterlicious. Even if you miss the festivals themselves, the list of restaurants is still a good place to start.

I would generally avoid Indian and Italian restaurants here. The average UK Italian/Indian place far outstrips the average Toronto Italian/Indian place. There are good places, but they're not the safe default they would be in the UK.

Finding a good meal is easy, so I will steer you towards the vegan and vegan-friendly places I like.

Good meals out

• Nunu in Queen West is probably the priciest Ethiopian restaurant in the city, but it's one of the best. The herbivore platter is tasty, and they're also a proper cocktail bar. One of my favourites.
• Planta is probably the city's fanciest vegan restaurant. It's neither excessively pricey nor pretentious.
• Tenon vegan sushi does what it says on the tin. It offers a really varied menu - some vegan fish or meat dishes, some vegetable-focused sushi. This is another favourite place; we often get takeaway from here when we're returning from a camping trip.
• Fresh jacked its prices up post-pandemic, and has tried to move somewhat upmarket. It has several branches in the city, and has a pretty broad menu. I am less fond of it than I used to be, but I still like it.
• Udupi Palace is an Indian restaurant in the east end. It is the opposite of fancy; a big basement with simple tables and little decor. But they do a great thali, and it's very affordable.
• Khao San Road is a bustling Thai place around King West with a separate vegan menu. I've enjoyed every meal I've had here. It is entangled with Pai, another nearby Thai place; legend has it that the two owners of Pai had a falling-out, and one left to set up Khao San Road. Pai is a popular place, but I used to work in the office above it and heard too many horror stories to eat there.
• Hogtown Vegan offers vegan versions of classic American dishes - chicken and waffles, stacked burgers, and so on. I can't eat like this every day but it's always well-executed.
• Buddha's Vegetarian is a classic Toronto choice. It's a down-to-earth place, clearly converted from a house to a restaurant. Generous portions mean you're likely to leave with leftovers.
• District Eatery is a little pretentious but has a decent vegan selection, and offers a vegan White Russian. An enjoyable rarity.
• I always enjoy Hello 123 more than I expect to. There's nothing extraordinary here but the food is always well-prepared.
• Dai Bi Chay is out in Etobicoke. It's a down-to-earth Vietnamese restaurant.
• African Palace is another good Ethiopian place on Bloor. It's more downmarket than Nunu but it's tasty.
• Cafe Landwer is an Israeli diner with some vegan options. I had a particularly good serving of greens here; the broccoli was hot, al dente, and correctly seasoned. It's hard to get broccoli right in a busy restaurant - it's easy to get the timing wrong, and it cools so quickly - so I was impressed.
• I've never eaten in at South India Dosa Mahal, but their takeaways are good and their vegan options clearly marked. They have a wide range of dosas, as you'd expect. They're not afraid of spice.

Okay meals out

• Rosalinda's has never knocked my socks off, but is fine enough.
• The vegan options at Skyline Diner are alright, but I wouldn't seek them out specifically. Come for Tuesday night trivia and have a bite to eat, though.
• I like the food at Parka - it's a vegan burger place on Queen West.
• African Delight is more of a cafe than a restaurant, but the food is good.

Coffee

Toronto has great coffee, like any major city. Let's start with some warnings, then get to the good stuff.

Chains

• Starbucks is everywhere. It's a dependable, quality cup of coffee. But come on, you have Starbucks at home, you can do better than this.
• Second Cup is probably Canada's biggest espresso chain. I have a fondness for the brand, which isn't always backed up by their coffee. There's a branch on King Street with a variety of brewing methods.
• Aroma is a smaller Canadian chain. The coffee's fine enough, and they have several vegan options on their menu.
• You should skip Tim Hortons. It's not really Canadian any more and the coffee is bad. They don't offer non-dairy milks in most stores. The branches are noisy and confusing.
• Canadians will tell you that McDonald's does surprisingly good coffee, but I think this is an illusion born out of a successful advertising campaign.

Notable coffees

Foursquare is mostly a ghost town these days, but it still works OK for finding good coffee near you if none of these are convenient:

• Major Treat is a small takeaway place in Queen West, which always makes good coffee.
• Capital Espresso is my favourite coffee place in that corner of Parkdale.
• Cherry Bomb on Roncesvalles can be a bit clattery, but is a good place for a takeaway coffee if you're in the area.
• White Squirrel opposite Trinity Bellwoods is my favourite coffee place in that chunk of Queen West.
• Birds and Beans is out in Etobicoke, but I am a big proponent of bird-friendly coffee and so are they. We have a coffee subscription to their beans for home brewing, so I obviously like their coffees.
• Balzac's should maybe be listed in the chains section, but I like their coffee and their branding. They sell some bird-friendly coffees too.
• Dark Horse has several branches around Toronto, and is a dependable option. The branch on Spadina near Dundas is a classic work-from-coffee-shop location.
• I Deal Coffee has several branches around Toronto; the one on Sorauren Avenue is a peaceful little neighbourhood place with a nice patio.
• Quantum Coffee is rather pretentious, but is solid.
• Moonbean Coffee can have long lines out the door - a vote in its favour - and is probably your best option in Kensington Market.
• Rooster Coffee is a good spot if you're in Riverdale.
• I don't feel any affection for Propeller Coffee, but it's a good cup.
• Sam James has several branches around Toronto, and is always strongly recommended by the blogs and travel guides, but personally I don't rate it. Ditto for Jimmy's Coffee and Hotblack. I will drink these - I might even enjoy them - but they're never my first choice.

RIP

• Early Bird Espresso was my favourite Toronto coffee place, but it closed in 2022.
• Little Nicky's was a popular choice when I worked downtown, but the pandemic and condo development did them in.

Niagara Falls

Niagara Falls is the classic day trip for visitors to Toronto. It's a natural wonder less than 50 miles away¹. It will be less crowded if you visit on a week day.

The falls themselves are spectacular. There's actually two waterfalls - the US side and the Canadian side. The Canadian side is better, and you'll get a good view of both. The town of Niagara Falls, on the other hand, is a touristic hellscape. You can skip all of the town and not miss anything.

Getting there

I've always driven to Niagara Falls; it takes about 1h40m. Parking is limited, so be prepared to walk 20 minutes from your car. Motels often offer parking; expect to pay about $20 for the day.

You can also take the train; I've never done this, but it takes about 2h20m.

Niagara Falls

There's a park with a paved path up to the waterfall. It's a longer walk than you expect, maybe 15 minutes. You can get extremely close to the falls for free (you'll get wet). There's a building by the falls with a number of souvenir shops.

If you've come all this way, it's worth doing some of the paid attractions. The boat cruise costs about $35, and the behind the falls tunnels are about $25. Both of these are worth it. I've never done the zip line - $70 is too steep for me - but it looks fun.

For about $65 you can buy the "Adventure Pass Classic", which adds a boardwalk trip along the river and a 360° cinema thing that sprays you with water. It's fine as a novelty, and also gets you a bus pass, but personally I would skip it. Be aware the boardwalk is a bus ride away.

The town

The town of Niagara Falls only exists because of tourism, so there's not much worth seeing. There's no good vegan food, and all the restaurants will be packed. I think your best bet is to bring a packed lunch. There's a Starbucks in the Sheraton Hotel, which is about the best you can hope for coffee.

My favourite thing about Niagara Falls is Bird Kingdom. If you like birds, you should definitely visit. It looks like a tourist trap, and there's some Niagara Falls history parts that are very cheesy and touristy. But once you've passed through that, it's all animals. There's a small bird aviary and some parrots; a gallery with insects and reptiles, and then the main aviary - a giant 3-storey high hall. It's the world's largest indoor aviary. You can also feed some lorikeets, and there's a Javanese house to check out too. It's got "museum cafe" vibes from the outside, but go in - it's an actual historical marvel. It dates from the 1800s, was built without nails, and is the only one in North America.

You can save a couple of bucks by buying tickets online.

Elsewhere

• Niagara-on-the-Lake is about a 15 minute drive north of Niagara Falls. It's a smaller town, and more bijou. It's a popular place to watch the sunset, and there's many wineries nearby. It was the first capital of Upper Canada. There's not much to do or see though. There's a tiny chapel just outside the town.
• You will drive through Hamilton, and it has a fair few things worth doing. It's not a big town but there's some interesting shops to browse.
  • Hamilton is sometimes called "the city of waterfalls". They're very different to Niagara Falls, but there's some nice easy hikes.
  • Planted in Hamilton and Boon Burger have good vegan food. I've never tried The Hearty Hooligan but the menu looks good. There are other vegan options too.
  • The Royal Botanical Gardens are technically part of Burlington, but they're closer to Hamilton. Just over the road is Holy Sepulchre Cemetry; I've seen bald eagles nesting in the trees near the lake, and you can get a nice view over the harbour.
• You will probably spot the Grand Hermine on your drive to the falls. I've never tried to visit it.
• There's an outlet mall just outside Niagara Falls, if you want to do some shopping.

Queen West walk

Queen Street is one of the main east-west streets in Toronto, and the western stretch passes through several trendy areas. A walk along it will show you a variety of neighbourhoods, independent businesses, and interesting street art.

I'm not going to call out all the interesting businesses to see along this walk: that's up to you. I'll mention a few easy-to-overlook places, though.

Parkdale and Queen West

I would start somewhere in Parkdale and head east, but you don't have to. You could start all the way down at the corner of Roncesvalles Avenue and Queen Street West, but anywhere in Parkdale is fine. Parkdale has a mix of new-wave shops and older businesses, mostly independent. It also has a large Tibetan community, so get some momos if you fancy a snack. There are several good coffee places, but Capital Espresso is the best. Parkdale also has a bunch of vintage stores. These are mostly focused on clothes, but Studio 1484 has some nice antiques and is a fun place to check out. Gallery 1313, by Dollarama, is also worth a look as you walk past.

Parkdale has an established population of red-tailed hawks. Look at the tops of buildings, any large birds flying overhead, or flocks of freaked out pigeons, and you'll probably spot one.

Once you cross Dufferin Street you've left Parkdale and entered Queen West. Things get a bit more glam here. You'll pass Major Treat coffee, which is excellent. Look behind you when you hit the Drake Motel, to see the Blue Jays mural. Just past Dovercourt, don't miss the You've Changed mural behind you either.

A bit further on you'll pass Ossington Avenue. This is a north-south street, and also a trendy area. It's a bit more upmarket (ie. expensive) than Queen West, and honestly the shops aren't all that, but there's a good indie record store up near Dundas, and some good coffee places (I Deal Coffee and Pilot Coffee Roasters) too. Bellwoods Brewery also has a shop/bar here. Detour if you like, but don't feel obliged.

The corner of Strachan Avenue (pronounced "Strawn") has Hanji, a cute store and good for gifts. You can also detour north along Shaw Street to visit Artscape Youngplace, an arts centre/gallery. It's normally pretty quiet, and has a few small art exhibitions you can check out. Again, this is optional.

Trinity Bellwoods

As you continue eastwards along Queen Street you'll pass Trinity Bellwoods Park. This is a nice spot for a picnic, or some takeaway. Trinity Bellwoods has a small population of albino squirrels, so keep your eyes peeled. They're the namesake of White Squirrel coffee, my favourite Trinity Bellwoods café.

Trinity Bellwoods is a popular summer hangout, both because it's reasonably central and because there's a lot of condo-dwellers nearby who don't have gardens. Drinking in public is against the law; every summer, the police pick a couple of days to blitz through and collect some fines. (You'd think this would be a no-brainer, but the best the city can do is agree to study it.) So keep your drinks in a paper bag, or a travel mug.

The park has some interesting history, though not much evidence can be seen today. There used to be a college here (now demolished). There's also a buried bridge near the dog bowl, and the now-underground Garrison Creek flowed through the park. There are some pavement markers to spot for the last two.

Queen West continued

Trinity Bellwoods marks a change in neighbourhood feel, for me. As you continue east you should check out Sanko. I've never been in Doc's Leathers, but apparently it's more than a leather store and has a collection of trinkets, novelties, and historical items.

Once you're past Bathurst Street you're getting close to graffiti alley. All the alleys around here are filled with murals, but this is the well-known one. It's worth a look; expect murals and selfie-takers.

Spadina Avenue

The end of graffiti alley drops you on Spadina Avenue. This is one of the main north-south streets in Toronto, and offers a decision point. You can stop this tour here, and do something else:

• There's a lot of good food options near here. Maybe it's time for lunch/dinner?
• You could head north to Chinatown and Kensington Market.
• The Art Gallery of Ontario is a 10-15 minute walk from here.
• You could stop off in 401 Richmond, another arts centre with galleries, cafés, and shops. Spacing has a store here, if you want Toronto-specific gifts for someone. It's worth checking this out even if you're going to continue along Queen Street.
• Just south of here is the entertainment district. If it's late and you want to hit up a trendy bar, you could.

Or you can continue east along Queen Street. You'll start seeing more and more chain stores & international brands, but there's still a few things to see.

The Black Market is on this next stretch of Queen Street, and is a Toronto institution. You'll also pass the CTV studios; you might see them filming something inside, and can definitely see the breaking news car.

Around University Avenue you'll see the Campbell House Museum. Unusually, this house was originally 1.5km away; it was moved in 1972. Osgoode Hall is over the road. (I've never visited either).

Past University Avenue

You're now very close to Nathan Phillips Square, which has the photogenic new town hall and "Toronto" sign. If it's a summer weekend, there's probably an event happening. Next door is old city hall, and next door to that is the Eaton Centre.

Even if you don't want to visit the mall, it's worth stepping inside to see the geese. There's also a food court, if you want some food and/or a sit down.

This is where our tour ends! There's Queen subway station here, as well as the Queen streetcar. You're a 5 minute walk from Dundas or King Street, which also has streetcar connections. The Image Centre is about a 15 minute walk away, if you want to continue your day with an art gallery.

High Park and Roncesvalles Avenue

High Park is Toronto's major downtown park. Bring a picnic and some binoculars; enjoy some time in greenery. Roncesvalles is a bijou neighbourhood with independent shops, nice to look around.

A couple of warnings:

• Toronto is generally quite flat, but High Park has hills.
• High Park has woodland, so you might need insect repellent.

You can make your own way around the park; it's quite big, so you're unlikely to see everything. Definitely visit the zoo and Grenadier pond. The manicured gardens and nature trail at the southeast corner of Grenadier Pond are quite nice; the trail along Spring Road is also pleasant. Grenadier Cafe is disappointing, but it's central and has bathrooms.

I've suggested a route, but don't feel obliged to follow it. I'd allow 3 hours for my route, including picnic and dawdling time. It starts with a walk along Roncesvalles Avenue, but there are other options for getting to the park. You can take the Queen Streetcar to Colborne Lodge Drive, and enter the park from the south. There's transit into the High Park Loop from Dundas; and the subway stops at the north edge of the park.

1. Start at the south corner of Queen Street and Roncesvalles Avenue, and head north up Roncesvalles. There's no perfect option for buying food to eat in the park later, but your best bet is either a burrito or a takeaway from South Indian Dosa Mahal. Dosa Mahal sells a "snack pack" of 10 assorted bhajis/samosas/pakoras/sweetbread for $10, which would be good to graze on. Cherry Bomb coffee is my favourite coffee place on Roncesvalles.

   If you're a transport nerd, before you head north up Roncesvalles cross over to The Queensway past the McDonald's. The Roncesvalles carhouse is here, where the streetcars sleep.

2. Keep walking up Roncesvalles, looking in any interesting shops, and take a left along High Park Boulevard. This is a residential street; these are some expensive houses. Cross Parkside Drive, and head into High Park. This entrance is underwhelming but you might see some wildlife in the ponds.

3. Your first stop is the animal display, with bison, capybaras, llamas, reindeer, and more. The capybaras once escaped.

4. Take a left up the side trail stairs towards the end of the zoo. (If you reach the Grenadier Cafe car park you missed the turn, but it's not the end of the world.) Cross the road, and you'll be at the top of the manicured gardens which slope down towards the pond. This is a popular area of the park, but you should see some birds here. Pick your preferred route down; I've charted a fairly direct route which skips most of the garden, but there are some boardwalk lookouts that are worth the detour. This is a nice area for your picnic.

5. As you head north along the pond the landscape switches from open park to woodland. At some point, head uphill towards the sports fields. Pass them and head towards the sculpture park.

6. The sculpture park starts near this picnic area, nestled among trees. There's a path through which will drop you on the Spring Road trail.

7. The tour ends here! I've suggested you continue straight on and exit the path, towards Keele subway station.

Where next

1. The marked option on the map is to visit the Taras Shevchenko museum. I've never been, but it's close to here.
2. Keep wandering the park. You can head south along the spring road trail - either all the way south to pick up the Queen Streetcar, or just to the High Park loop for the College streetcar.

Toronto islands

Visiting the islands is a classic summertime activity. I try to take a sunny day off work each year and spend it on the beach there. You can't drive on the islands, so it's very peaceful. There's a fairground, some nature, some history, and some nudity: something for everybody. There's basically no shops on the island, so bring a water bottle and a picnic. A bike will make the islands much more explorable.

A map of the island; north is at the bottom. View PDF.

Getting to the island

The city runs ferries from Jack Layton ferry terminal. It costs about $10 per adult; don't worry about keeping your ticket, as return trips are free. It's worth booking a ticket online, as there's always giant queues in the summer. I wouldn't even try visiting on the weekend unless you love crowds.

If you're visiting on foot, you want to get the ferry to centre island. Check the timetable; there are some weird gaps where there's no ferry for 40 minutes, and it's annoying if you just miss one. If you have a bike, don't worry about it: you probably want a Hanlan's Point or Ward's Island ferry anyway, as they're less crowded.

You'll probably return around sunset, which will give you better pictures, but don't forget to look behind you at the Toronto skyline as you travel over.

Arriving on foot at Centre Island

The Centre Island ferry terminal is close to the funfair. There's nothing too compelling here, but the petting zoo is free and worth a look. After that I would walk up through the gardens towards the pier. These are all the most popular parts of the island: anywhere you go from here will be quieter.

At the pier you can hire a bike (including tandems and 4-person pedal cars). If you don't hire a bike, I would choose one of two paths. Both will be quieter than Centre Island, but I wouldn't try to do both on foot as the island's quite big.

1. You can head east, towards Ward's Island. This is the more residential part of the island. There's a boardwalk along the south edge of the island, and the Rectory Cafe sells alcohol as well as soft drinks. You can sit on the beach at Ward's Island - it's not normally crowded - and get the ferry back from the Ward's Island terminal. If you hit the far east edge of the island there's a concrete breakwater you can walk along, though there's not much to see - you're looking at the port lands maybe 80 metres away.

2. You can head west, towards Hanlan's Point. This takes you past the lighthouse, as well as some ponds where you should see some birds. When I go to the beach I head to Gibraltar Point Beach (near the lighthouse, not marked on the map) as it tends to be quite quiet. There's also an arts centre, though I've never seen it open, and Hanlan's Point nude beach.

   I think the nude beach is skippable. It feels more like a party beach, and is quite exposed. Boats often moor up just offshore, apparently to gawk.

   The Hanlan's Point ferry terminal is often quite busy, as the beach is popular. But you should be fine to get the ferry back from here - it's about a 40 minute walk to the Centre Island terminal, so waiting for the next ferry is almost always your best choice.

Arriving by bike

The whole island is open to you if you arrive by bike. You can start at Hanlan's Point, then cycle up through the park to the lighthouse and the ponds. Stop for a bit, then continue on to the pier and head north to the petting zoo. Then head over to the Rectory Cafe for a drink, before getting the Ward's Island ferry back.

Gibraltar Point beach, in the south west of the island.

Heading north along the path to the Hanlan's Point ferry, with the CN Tower visible in the distance.

Kensington market

Kensington Market is Toronto's hippie district: a central location of independent shops, restaurants, and bars. It's a fun place to visit while you're here; not every city has a neighbourhood like this.

If you can, you should try to visit Kensington Market on the last Sunday of the month for Pedestrian Sunday. There's street performers, special events, and generally more of a fun atmosphere. Keep an eye out for the statuettes at the entrances to the market.

None of my suggested itineraries are supposed to be followed slavishly, but that goes double for this one. I've drawn a route on the map, but as long as you take in Augusta Avenue, Kensington Avenue, and Baldwin Street you can (and should) wander freely.

1. I need to start this tour somewhere, so why not outside the church of St Stephen in the Fields? There's a statue which always surprises me when I'm walking along this stretch of College Street. I've probably spoiled the surprise by telling you to look out for it. Sorry. Walk east, and take a right on Augusta Avenue.

2. The top of Kensington Market has some bars and eateries. (Kensington's pretty small, so take note of good-looking places and come back to your favourite later.) Once you cross over Oxford Street, there's more shops. Keep an eye out for the garden car - a Kensington Market landmark - as well as Blue Banana, a giant gift shop that's worth a browse. Bungalow is across the street if you like vintage - it also has a basement section. The south section of this block has some stores selling hats, sunglasses, scarves, etc for good prices.

   This block also features Bunner's vegan bakery, and Dolce Gelato has some vegan options too.

3. Keep walking south along Augusta, stopping in any interesting-looking shops. There's more market to your left along Baldwin Street, but we'll come back to that. I'm fond of Carlos' House of Spice, but it's not much use to a tourist. Kid Icarus is worth a look. Scope out Bellevue Square Park as you pass - our tour ends with a suggestion of takeaway eaten here, but it sometimes feels a bit sketchy.

   Keep an eye out for the junk robots just south of the park. Keep going until you hit Dundas Street, then turn left and Left again.

4. You're now on Kensington Avenue. This stretch has a lot of vintage stores, as well as some hippie boutiques and second-hand bookstores. There's also often street performances on this stretch. Keep heading north, back up towards Baldwin Street. Just before you get there, you might like to stop in Essence of Life (a giant health food store) for a snack, or Moon Bean Cafe (on St Andrew Street) for a coffee. There's also a Green P car park here; the top floor will give you an elevated view of the market and Toronto's downtown. It's not a great view, but it's free and convenient.

   Once you hit Baldwin Street, you have a couple of decisions to make. You can head right and see a few more shops and cafes, and/or enter the car park. Or if you've already decided what you want to eat, head left andpick up your food.

5. Return to Bellevue Square Park, and enjoy a sunny park lunch.

Where next

1. Were none of the food options tempting for you? That's hard to believe. But you're just round the corner from Buddha's Vegetarian, a down-to-earth veggie Chinese restaurant.
2. If it's a hot summer's day, maybe an air-conditioned museum would be a nice change of pace? You're a 10-15 minute walk from the Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO). This also takes you through a stretch of Chinatown.
3. This nearby stretch of Spadina Avenue has some gift stores; maybe this is a good time to pick up some Canadian souvenirs?

The garden car on Augusta Avenue.	I can't promise you fire spinners, but I saw some on this particular Pedestrian Sunday.

Downtown photo walk

Toronto's financial district is full of skyscrapers. If glass, steel, and right angles are your thing, then you will find lots of photo opportunities here.

This walk will feel very different on weekends, as the city completely empties out. A lot of the businesses in the PATH are closed at weekends; you're never too far away from the shops, but it's harder to break for a coffee mid-walk. It's not a long walk - 2 hours should be plenty of time to see everything, take photos in each spot, grab a coffee, and see any special events you stumble across.

1. Start at St Andrew Station, and head west. You'll pass a church - basically the only bit of non-modern architecture we'll see today - then immediately encounter Roy Thompson Hall. It's a concert hall with a sunken patio garden. On the north side of King Street you'll find part of the Canadian Walk of Fame, if you'd like to see some famous Canadian names. Head south through the park to Wellington Street, then head east.

2. Cross over University Avenue and York Street, then head up into the park by the two big black buildings. This is the Toronto-Dominion Centre, designed by Mies van der Rohe. There's reflections here, and long lines of pillars, and often good shadows for portraits.

   You might have heard the story of the lawyer who liked to show interns the unbreakable glass by throwing himself against windows? Until one day, the glass did not break but the window frame did, and he fell to his death? That was Garry Hoy, in the TD Centre.

3. Pass up through the courtyard back onto King Street, then head south along Bay. The RBC Plaza is on your right, a sharp golden building. But we're heading indoors to Brookfield Place/the Allen Lambert Galleria. This space has a dramatic roof, as well as cut-outs where you can shoot overhead photos of people on the escalators. The galleria often hosts exhibits too; their website has listings.

Where next

1. The Hockey Hall of Fame is at the end of the galleria, if you want to finish your tour and go see sporting memorabilia.
2. You could head east along Wellington Street and see the dog fountain, Gooderham building, and St Lawrence Market.
3. You could head south and see Union Station. The inside hall is striking.
4. Keep walking south, tolerating some traffic-heavy roads, and you'll find yourself at the Toronto ferry terminal. You could head to the island; it'll strike a real contrast against the financial district.
5. The Eaton Centre is a 15 minute walk north. Or take the northbound subway from King to Dundas, and round off your photo walk with a trip to The Image Centre (a photography-focused gallery).